Shower Tile Installation in Clinton Township, MI

A tiled shower is the most demanding tile project in a house. It is the only place where tile gets soaked every day, sometimes several times a day, for decades. The tile and grout you see are not actually what keeps water out of your walls and floor. That job belongs to the waterproofing layer hidden behind and beneath the tile. When a shower is built right, it can last as long as the house. When it is built wrong, it can look fine for years while water quietly rots the subfloor, studs and the ceiling below.

This guide explains how tiled showers are built, the main waterproofing approaches, walk-in and curbless designs, and what affects cost for homeowners in Clinton Township and nearby Macomb County.

Types of Tiled Showers

Standard tiled shower with a curb

The most common design: a tiled floor sloped to a drain, tiled walls, and a low curb at the entry to keep water in. A glass door or curtain closes it off.

Walk-in shower

A walk-in shower usually means a larger shower with an open entry, sometimes with a fixed glass panel instead of a door. Walk-in showers are popular in primary bathrooms and for aging in place. They may have a low curb or no curb at all.

Curbless or zero-entry shower

A curbless shower has no step at all; the bathroom floor flows straight into the shower. This requires the shower floor to be recessed or the whole bathroom floor to be built up and sloped so water stays in the shower. Linear drains, long narrow drains along one wall, are common in curbless designs. Curbless showers are excellent for accessibility but involve more structural planning, especially on wood-framed second floors.

Tub-to-shower conversion

Many Clinton Township homeowners replace a bathtub they rarely use with a larger walk-in shower. The tub is removed, the drain is relocated as needed, and a new shower pan, walls and glass are built in the same footprint.

How a Tiled Shower Is Built

1. Demolition to the studs. The old tile, backer and pan are removed. This is the moment to check framing, plumbing and any hidden water damage.
2. Framing and plumbing. Studs are straightened, blocking added for grab bars, niches and benches framed, valves and drains placed. Plumbing work should be done by a qualified plumber and may need a permit.
3. Shower pan and slope. The floor needs a consistent slope to the drain so water never sits. Industry guidance calls for a minimum slope toward the drain, commonly a quarter inch per foot. The slope can be built from mortar or with a pre-sloped foam tray.
4. Waterproofing. A continuous waterproof layer covers the floor and walls and connects to the drain. Every seam, corner, valve and pipe penetration is sealed.
5. Flood test. Before any tile goes on, the drain is plugged and the pan is filled with water, typically for at least a day, to prove it does not leak. Ask your installer whether they flood test; it is one of the best signs of a careful shower builder.
6. Tile installation. Walls and floor are tiled with full mortar coverage. Niches and benches are tiled and sloped so water drains off.
7. Grout and sealant. Grout fills the tile joints, and flexible sealant goes in corners and changes of plane, never grout in those spots.
8. Glass and fixtures. Once everything has cured, the glass enclosure, trim and fixtures are installed.

Shower Waterproofing Systems

There are two broad approaches to keeping water out of the walls, and several types of products installers use. Your installer will recommend one based on the design and their experience; what matters most is that it is a complete, compatible system installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Traditional mortar bed with a liner

The classic method uses a sloped mortar bed under a flexible waterproof liner, with a second mortar bed on top and a clamping drain. Walls get a moisture barrier behind cement board. This method has been used for generations and works well when done correctly, but it is slower and depends heavily on installer skill.

Surface-applied sheet membranes

Sheet membrane systems, such as the Schluter-KERDI family and similar products from other manufacturers, are bonded directly to the backer and the pan with thinset. The seams are overlapped and the system ties into a matching drain. Because the waterproofing is right behind the tile, the backer and mortar stay dry. Many of these systems include pre-sloped foam trays, curbs, niches and benches that make walk-in and curbless designs easier to build consistently.

Liquid-applied membranes

Liquid membranes, such as RedGard, Hydro Ban and similar products, are rolled or brushed onto the backer in one or more coats, usually with fabric reinforcement in corners and seams. They form a seamless waterproof layer. Applying the right thickness is important, and many products change color when dry so installers can see full coverage.

Foam board systems

Waterproof foam backer boards are lightweight panels that replace cement board on walls. When seams and screws are sealed with the manufacturer's products, they create a waterproof wall assembly.

No matter which system is used, stick with one manufacturer's compatible components for the drain, membrane and sealants when possible, and follow their instructions. Mixing parts that were not designed to work together is a common source of leaks.

Design Choices for Your Shower

• Wall tile: large porcelain tile for fewer grout lines, classic subway tile, or natural stone for luxury.
• Floor tile: smaller tile or mosaics that follow the slope and offer grip, or large tile cut to work with a linear drain.
• Niches: recessed shelves for shampoo, built into the wall and waterproofed.
• Benches: built-in or floating seats, waterproofed and sloped.
• Grab bars: blocking added during framing so bars can be mounted securely later.
• Glass: framed or frameless doors, fixed panels for walk-in designs.
• Steam showers: need vapor-rated waterproofing, a sloped ceiling and a sealed enclosure.

Signs Your Existing Shower Is Leaking

• Loose or hollow-sounding tiles.
• Grout that keeps cracking or crumbling in the same spots.
• Dark or stained grout that never dries out.
• Soft or spongy floor in or near the shower.
• Stains, peeling paint or bubbling on the ceiling below.
• Musty smell even after cleaning.
• Mold along caulk lines that returns quickly.

If you see these signs, a regrout alone may not fix the problem. See our guides to tile repair and replacement and grout repair and regrouting.

What a Tiled Shower Costs

Angi's 2026 shower tile cost guide puts the national average at about $2,700, with most homeowners spending $1,800 to $5,000, and larger custom showers reaching $10,000 or more. Angi lists shower tile labor at roughly $10 to $15 per square foot. Waterproofing a shower typically adds roughly $450 to $750, per Angi's tile installation data.

Your total depends on:

• Size of the shower and height of the tile.
• Tile type and pattern.
• Niches, benches and accent strips.
• Curbless construction or relocating the drain.
• Plumbing valve replacement or relocation.
• Glass enclosure, which is often priced separately.
• Repairs to framing or subfloor found during demolition.

These are general national estimates, not quotes. A local shower installer will give you a written estimate after seeing your bathroom.

Get a Shower Tile Quote in Clinton Township

Tell us what you have now (tub, fiberglass insert, old tile shower) and what you would like (walk-in, curbless, tub-to-shower conversion). Call or use the form on this page, and a local tile installer serving Clinton Township will follow up to schedule an estimate.